Hello Citizens! First a HUGE shout out to @Isprin for the help with this project! I have made a Thrustmaster Warthog profile and designed a replacement plate for the Warthog throttle plate in Adobe Illustrator. @Isprin laser cut the plates and did an amazing job. The plates are a white acrylic with a black coating that, when engraved, reveal the transparent white acrylic and allow the green lights to glow from underneath. Here's a walkthrough of that journey. Some of the cool functions of the Thrustmaster Target profile I made All the lights are off be default. Press the "FLIGHT READY" button and all the throttle lights come on. There are 5 LED status lights. (Top picture, top of frame, 5 white dots in a row) These lights can be programmed to turn on and off with key presses. Press the Power, Engine, Shield, Lights or Landing Gear and individual LED's show the status with symbols instead of generic white dots. Power and Engine are on rockers that allow you to cycle them without sending a keyboard command in case the lights are out of sync due to getting into the cockpit of another person's ship or not resetting before getting into a new ship. 2 position Rocker for Doors (Locked/Unlocked) 2 position Rockers for Exterior (Open/Closed) 3 Position Rocker to change modes on the throttle and stick(s) from SCM/Basic Flight/MFD - Basic Flight and MFD modes work as "Weapons safe" and disable weapons and reconfigure the other buttons on the stick and throttle. Precision slider for very slow decent while strafing down for landing. Feels like a mix between autoland and manual landing. Landing gear Button - One Push to cycle landing gear. When pushed in conjunction with pinky button on stick it engages autoland. All combat function are on the Stick and throttle handle allowing for true HOTAS. The only commands on the throttle base are non-combat oriented. Thrustmaster Warthog throttle with default A-10 plate showing some of the lights. It's a common misconception, that I too shared, that the top/forward most plate was hard to remove. It's not. Because of the split in the plate under the "Flaps" rocker it just slides off after removing 3 screws. The bottom/rear plate comes off with just two screws. In addition to the screws, both plates are held in place with double sided sticky tape that is not critical and can easily be removed.. Sample of the two plates with white showing where the engraving will be. Sample of the two plates with green showing where the Lights are underneath the engraving. That's the DIY in a nutshell. Thanks for looking Citizens!